Thursday, June 5, 2014

The End... at least for this blog

Upon return from a vacation it is always hard to remember all the moving parts that made the trip memorable.   I have found that the very good and the really bad are much easier to recapture in my mind than the things that just happen daily.   So here is the wrap up, and I will try to capture some of the mundane as well as the high and low lights of our trip. 
 
Our motivating factors, if we really need one, to go to St John, was for Janet to participate in Beach-to-Beach Power Swim and catch up and have some chill time with our friends. 



Both of our goals were successful!  And to top it all off -  this trip included so many first time experiences which made this getaway very special. 
 
Janet completed the 3.5 miles swim, and even had a time improvement under much tougher conditions than her last Power Swim.   The water swells were much larger than in 2010, but what really made this swim harder was that her water iPod went dead at the beginning of the race.  No worries, as reported, it did not affect Towel Boy at all.  He was waiting for her at the finish line.  If I had to guess, I think she pulled her cap to tight when the horn went off and hit the off button on iPod.  Oh well she had hum her way to the finish.
 
The Other Side:
 

Staying on the “other” side of the island for the first time was really fun.  There is definitely a different vibe between the Cruz Bay and the Coral Bay side of the island.  What Coral Bay lacks in conveniences of life are quickly over shadowed by the adventures one can find nearby.  One thing I can now say, beyond a shadow of doubt, that whether one stays in Cruz Bay or Coral Bay they will leave knowing St John is an amazing island.
 
Lodging this time was with friends in their sabbatical home.  A two bedroom – two bath not far from Aqua Bistro, and was and ideal location for our week.  The screen porch overlooks Coral Bay, and is a wonderful place to begin or end a day’s adventure. With friends living on island it relieved us from having to rent a vehicle for the week also.   So nothing to add on lodging or vehicle rental this trip except friends on island are a nice thing to have.    
 
 
Highlights (in no particular order)
 
Snorkeling in the Mangroves – I must admit it was a little creepy, especially at low tide!  Definitely want to do this again with a guide.
 
 
Finding Angel’s Rest anchored in Haulover Bay – Great Snorkel followed by a Rum Punch in a floating bar.  How cool is that.  The hole in the bottom of the boat with a glass table is just cool.  They even have a head (nautical for bathroom onboard) for those who cannot pee in the ocean.  Ahh but I digress
 
Watching a Barracuda get their prey on Francis Bay – Holy Crap!  I felt like I was watching National Geo Channel on HD.  The entire event happened directly in front of us.  AWESOME!  Well… maybe not so much for the prey.
 
Open Mic Night at Concordia – A bunch of old hippies (my group) playing with some strong young fresh voices out front.  Very Very enjoyable.
 
Meeting a few fellow TTOL members - Sailorjane, BVIShuga, and JostPirate


New People - Chatting with so many new and old visitors to the island that have come from around the world to participate or support someone in Beach to Beach Power Swim.  And a BIG THANK YOU to all the folks in the Yellow Hats.  Without these volunteers there would be no race!
 
 


Lowlights (in no particular order)
 
Mosquitoes – Well this was the top lowlight – They were very intense in the late afternoon so it cut beach time by about 90 minutes.
 
Underwater Camera – When you see a big bubble surface from your camera, I can guarantee that is UNGOOD.  I experienced UNGOOD twice.  Note to self:  Vaseline on the rubber gasket!  This shot of a leaf floating at Maho is one of the few pictures taken underwater that we have from this trip.  If someone asks, How clear is the water - show them this one.
 

 
Music at Joe's Rum Hut during Happy Hour - They have great happy hour prices and make a fine drink, but when Happy Hour Starts the music gets loud and SUCKS! Of course IMHO.
 
JVD – This one is very hard for me to write, but I am afraid JVD has gotten too popular.  The laid back beach bars now have a Jimmy Buffett concert feel.  Me… I am just living and dying in ¾ time, and I do not think I will ever become a cheeseburger in paradise.    Maybe it was just a real busy day.

The Haze - Unfortunately we arrived about the same time as the wind-blown dust from the Sahara Desert in Africa.  Although it has little effect on the weather, the beautiful blue skies are dull and almost grey in color.

 
 
Nutmeg - Not being able to hook up with Nutmeg.  Next time I promise! 
 
New Finds for Us:
 
Sloop Jones:  Another first for us was a trip out to Sloop Jones to check out the artistic apparel.  It is one of those stores that cannot be escaped without pulling out your wallet.   No pressure to buy, but the clothing colors just call out your name.   They have big and tall as well as short and fat sizes, which was lucky for me. Once you slip your shirt on, the hand painted artwork makes you eligible to be a Grateful Dead Groupie.  http://www.sloopjones.com/ 
 
Island Cork:  Located in the back of Mongoose Junction in one of the out buildings upstairs.  Island Cork offers a small but eclectic choice of wines, and the prices seem more reasonable than other wine stores on island.  http://islandcork.com/
 
Meals:
As I have always found, the best meals are always at home.  We had a couple amazing dinners at our friend’s home and we ate out the other nights.  There was one reoccurring theme that I did find very disappointing when we dined out.  The service was adequate to unacceptable, with the later being more prevalent.   Maybe because it is a shoulder season, but most the wait staff seemed brand new and clueless.  I was glad to find the cook staffs were all very good to excellent, and when you get right down to it – you are there to eat.
 
Shipwreck Landing – Party of 4 | It was our first night on island after a day of traveling.  We had a light dinner, and the food was very enjoyable.   The service was efficient and pleasant.  However after all the rain the previous week(s) the mosquitoes made it a very quick meal before heading to the safety of the screen porch back at the house.
 
Rhumb Lines – Party of 6 | So there was 6 of us for dinner, but dinner was only delivered two people.  Then 5 minutes later person 3 got their meal.  Meal number 4 was not too far behind, but number 5 and 6 did not arrive until the first four were almost finished their meal.  Quality of the food was excellent!  I had never had the Plum Chicken and it was VERY good.  I am pretty sure everyone enjoyed their meals… but oh the service. 
 
Morgan’s Mango – Party of 6 | Service was much better, but did not surpass adequate.  Each couple got a Creamy Seafood Paella and split it.   There was a piece or morsel left on anyone’s plate.   The wine list was good and also matched up with the menu very well.  A very pleasant experience with great food is hard to beat.  I have always wanted a tree in my dining room.
 
da Livio – Party of 6 | Well service reached an all time low.  We did have something in common with our waiter.  It was the first time in the restaurant for both of us.  Meals came at strange times and not together, bottles of wine that were ordered but not served until well into the meal.  I am not sure the wine would have ever arrived, but atlas with our parched tongues hanging out, the headwaiter, who was mortified, save the day. 
 
Putting that behind us for a moment, the food was amazing.  My wife and shared meals and we ordered for our Antipasto/Primo a gourmet pizza.   The pizzas are cooked in a fire oven as you walk into the restaurant, and immediately your reeled in - I need one of those bad boys for dinner!  Ours was a Bianca with Mozzarella hot Soppressata onions Gorgonzola and Parmigianino.  For the Secondo, we split a Tagliatelle di castagne al Cinghiale e Porcini.  This wild boar and chestnuts sat on a bed of homemade pasta with a Porcini sauce.  Yum Yum! 
 
Now back to the service… Our Secondo was delivered before the Primo and with no wine.  I know these things speak or truly first world problems and I know the food all end ups in the same spot, but it would have been so much more enjoyable with wine in the order we ordered it.  A very nice wine list, which is heavy on Italian (Duh!) but well thought out.  No worries – Bad Service or not - We will return!   OK, I was wearing shorts and flip-flops… should I expect more?
 
Aqua Bistro – Party of 4 | We ate at the bar and I truly enjoyed my Cracked Conch, and Janet had nice things to say about her Black Bean soup.  The calamari appetizer was done very well also.   The bartender was excellent and it may have been the best service we had on the island this trip.  Service always gets high marks when your glass stays full!
 
Over the years, we have come to love a drink that my friend and I have tweaked on seeking perfection.  We call it a Rumhattan.  Made just like a Manhattan, but instead of whiskey one uses an aged Rum.  Ron Zacapa, a 23 year aged rum, is the liquid of choice at Aqua Bistro. And a fine choice indeed.  The bartender does a wonderful job as the mixologist of the tropical potion, albeit if he would just add one more shake of bitters I would have reached nirvana.  This drink is not for the faint heart or pocketbook.  Treat yourself if you are ever at Agua Bistro, and if you see a bearded man sitting at the bar having a Rumhattan tell him - Tom says hello. 
 
 
Lunches were either made with items picked up at Sam and Jack’s Deli or sandwiches we had made at Pickles in Coral Bay.  Both were excellent quality!  We did eat and Skinny Legs, which is always dependable, place to find shade, cold beer, and wonderful hamburgers.   They have even introduced a Philly Cheese Steak. 
 
One day after snorkeling at Hansen Bay, we treated ourselves to some conch fritters and Johnny Cakes at Vie’s Snack Shack.    One can never get in hurry at Vie’s, but it was worth the wait.  While waiting for our fried treats, we enjoyed a few cold beers and conversations with a few East-Enders.  Everyone will be happy to know that all the island problems were identified and solutions offered.   Nevertheless, the new ferry is still not running and some folks still have fences up on the east end restricting access.  
 
And, I cannot forget to mention Cruz Bay Landing’s Breakfast.   I did give them a shout out in the blog, but suffice it to say their breakfast was WONDERFUL, and a great way to start off a day of snorkeling, hiking, or heaven forbid… the return trip home.
 
Until next the next trip, I will be hanging out counting the days until we return.
 
 
So what did we learn by following this blog?

If you poke something in a hole...
Don't be surprised if something comes out. 
You have been warned!

Thanks Rich and Sally for a wonderful week!
 
Ta Ta for Now
Towel Boy

Friday, May 30, 2014

Time To Go

Our last day began like the first – truly enjoying being with our friends.   

We loaded up Suki, their beach vehicle, and headed over the mountain into Cruz Bay for a going away breakfast.  We pulled up at Cruz Bay Landing, and I was feeling a little melancholy about our pending departure.  I struggled with what I wanted to drink.  It is morning so…  Coffee…  No No it is going to be a long day… hydrate… water… Hey, you are still on vacation a Bloody Mary that is what you need.  Oh, what the hell, one each please – I could not go wrong.
 


I am not sure if Cruz Bay Landing’s Bloody Mary is as good as what I remember of JJs, their predecessor, but hands down the food is much better.   

We opted to take the ferry directly Charlotte Amalie.  Our bags were stacked on the deck, and we decided to also stay outside for our trip.   Wanting to catch our last view of the island, the dark clouds did not concern us.   Then I felt a drop, than another one, and then with a violent wave and scream from a crewman the Captain of the ferry took off.  Accelerating as soon as he could we left St John in the pouring rain with a wake.   The rain lasted only for a few minutes and the wind dried our clothes by the time we reached St Thomas. 
 
 
2014
2004
Since 2004, we have had a tradition of going to Café Amici next to A. H. Riise in St Thomas as part of our return home journey.  They have always served great brick oven pizzas that would keep me full enough to avoid an airplane box food.   The server informed us that many of the ingredients for the pizzas and some menu items were not available because today was their last day.  Café Amici had been sold.  The new owners plan to reopen, but with a fine dining theme.   We wish them well, but our tradition ended with a White Margherita pizza.  So now full from lunch and my melancholy compounded with the news of Café Amici's pending closure we headed to the airport.  

On a glum cloudy afternoon in the islands, we returned to pouring rain in Virginia at 1 AM. 
 
 
However as we pulled into the driveway we both had smiles on our faces and love in hearts because we knew that we will be returning to St John at least once more before the year ends. 

Hmmm… Mystery Holes


A few entries ago, the blog featured  “Janet the Tarantula Whisper”.   With just a few pokes of a long blade of grass she made an ugly arachnid come to the surface.  When our friend told the story initially of how to make them appear, I think everyone of us thought it was a legend.  


I guess you really cannot have an Urban Legend on island – so it must be an Island Story.  Well that story has now been confirmed as fact!

And of course everybody knows while you sit on the beach watching a hole, eventually a little sand crab will make an appearance.  
 
Sometimes more than one will pop up and scamper back and forth along the surf line.  They are harmless, but menacing looking fellows.   I never know which I enjoy more to watch – the quick little sand crabs or the small children running after these elusive crustaceans.

Now the mystery…  We decided to hike over to North Haulover to check if it was calm enough to snorkel.  It is a very short walk from the road to the beach through the brush.  Along the way there is some marsh land where a homemade bridge of boards makes the transit easier.    Not far from the bridge we stumbled upon some mysterious holes.  Larger in diameter than a softball, there were multiple holes along the path.  Logically, I deduced they were mongoose holes, however if they were they would be flooded by the marsh after a heavy rain or by a rising sea.  

 


The only thing that I can absolutely guarantee about these mystery orifices is that Janet, the Tarantula Whisper, will not be poking any sticks down these holes to see what pops up. 
 
Fun Fact:  Janet swims much faster than she runs!

Monday, May 26, 2014

My Oh My!

Before I say anything I must tell you that I have broken two underwater cameras this week.  I have snapped pictures and watched a big bubble form over two different cameras.  I am very sorry that there are only a couple pictures and neither one captures the beauty we saw.  Suffice it to say it was some of the best snorkeling I have done in a very very long time.    


Today was a first as we head to the Mangroves in Hurricane Hole.  The growth hangs over the water and that is the great snorkeling.   This is not a snorkel for the weak of heart.  At some points my belly was inches from the bottom.


OK… No smart a$$ comments… we were not in 4 feet of water.  As you snorkeled toward the shore Snapper, small fish, and some pretty mean looking Barracudas were hiding within the protection of the roots.  Simply put:  AMAZING!

 
After a quick lunch at Skinny Legs (Best Hamburgers on the Island) we headed over to Haulover Bay.  The snorkeling reminded us of Puerto Rico in the late seventies.  The life returning to the reef was a pleasant surprise.  My Oh My… what a wonderful day!

After a wonderful snorkel what did we find, but Angel Rest had dropped anchor in the bay and drinks were plentiful.  I might have already said it, My Oh My… what a wonderful day!

 
We ended the evening at Concordia Eco Resort for open mic night.  It was the last one until next season.  Many of St John’s finest joined in to make it a great night of music.  Even one of the performer’s mom joined in to make it a very special night.  All the performers joined together to do a great cover of “The Wait”
 
 
Our trip is coming to the end, but it has been an amazing week.

Let the fun begin!

With the race over it was time to celebrate.  We signed up for the after party on Island Sprit to JVD.  I am always happiest under sail and this day trip allowed us to have the wind in our face headed for a fun location – Jost Van Dyke.  It is one big boat!
 

The harbor was a happening place!  I thought we were in peak season.  From One Love to the Soggy Dollar the bars were slammed.
 
Not my most favorite visit to Jost, but hey it is Jost where everyone always has a good time.

 
The sail home was very relaxing, and with everyone’s tongues loosen the conversations were great and for some the activities on island was just a little too much.


 
There is just something about being on the water under sail.
 

Clearing customs we headed over the hill the other side.   There were lots of donkey checkpoints, but cleared every one of them.  I have to admit the view as you come down the mountain is some kinda nice.

 
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 
Update…  Well we crunched the numbers and discussed at great length at JVD about the purchase of the million dollar view.  Janet and I were willing to come up with  the first .1 million, but our retired friends on a fix income would not come up with the other 1.5 million.  So I guess the deal is off.  Damn we were so close to having this a view. 
 


Sunday, May 25, 2014

Race Day Wrap Up

Before the first rooster could crow, we were up and movin’.  Our friends were volunteers for the race and were dropped off at Cinnamon Bay, and then back over the hill to Maho.  We were greeted by a whole host of noseeums.   I guess it was too early for the mosquitos.  Race preps began with all important number being assigned.


Then it was time to line up and to get away from the noseeums....
 

The started a few minutes past 8 with 70 some green caps running into the water.  They were followed by waves of swimmers each wearing a different color to indicate their distance and level of assistance.  The water was like glass at the start, but shortly after all the swimmers were in the water the wind picked up.   Janet said it was very much a different swim than two years ago.  The sea conditions made it more difficult.  Along the way she spotted a turtle, starfish, and a nurse shark.   Once again the Beach to Beach Power Swim was a very positive event for all.

 Towel Boy was there for the finish once again.
 

Tomorrow it is Jost Van Dyke for a post swim party and snorkel.  The KG crowd gathers to chat about their adventure today and the party tomorrow,
 
 

Saturday, May 24, 2014

Flash.... The Race is on - And the Finish!

Start time was at 8:06 Atlantic Standard Time!
Towel boy at finish line with a chair in the shade and towel ready.
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And the finish!
 

No official time yet, but she had a great swim.  Towel boy was there for her support.
We are pretty sure she had a small time improvement, but did not place.
The swim was harder this year, but she felt strong on the finish.
A turtle, starfish, and a small Nurse Shark were all spotted along the way.

Friday, May 23, 2014

Showtime!

Not much time to write anything because it is off to bed!  Why so early you ask?
It is SHOWTIME for Towel Boy!


We spent most the day at the East End enjoying the sights and the conch fritters at Vie's.
  My Favorite Picture of the Day for your enjoyment.


We did do some real estate shopping on the East End.... We found a lot that we are considering spilitting with our friends.  We are still working the numbers, but what is this view worth?


Yep it is a million dollar view!
 
 

A great day for a Hats


The lazy days of a vacation found us chillin’ on Francis Bay. 
 
 
Janet did get a good swim in from Francis Bay over to the far side of Maho.
 
 
 
However for the most part we just hung out on the beach.  There was one exciting nature moment when a 3 to 4 foot barracuda found its lunch right in front of us.  The prey trying to escape at one time made it to the beach, but an incoming wave returned it to the awaiting barracuda.  Sorry no pictures, but it was amazing thing to watch the "Circle of Life" event in front of us.
 
After the excitement of the attack we went back to chillin’ and taking in the beauty of the day.

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Janet… Tarantula Whisperer

We went to Coral Bay Organic Gardens, better known as Josephine’s to snag some fresh greens and arugula for a salad.   

We were looking at all the beautiful plants and herbs when Sally stopped us and pointed to a hole in the ground.  

She told us that she had learned that these holes were tarantula homes and if you took a long blade of grass and poked it down the hole you could entice the critter to the surface.  Janet reached for a blade of grass as I laughed and walked away.  I could see another adventure like looking for snipes or a bucket of prop wash.  I was sure Sally just found a gullible sucker.
 

Janet had barely stuck the grass in the hole when a scream could be heard and I turned to see her doing the “oh sh#t” dance.  She had a tarantula snatch hold of the blade and did not want to let go.  I am not sure if even Sally believe the story of the tarantula  holes, but we are all believers now.
 
 
Janet is not only a distance swimmer she is now known as a Tarantula Whisperer  
 
BTW - Josephine's arugula is like no other.  If on island go visit her, but do not start poking holes unless you are ready to run.